Chapter 10: Outfitting etc.

The hull structure is now complete except for surface finishing. From here, I will equip the various outfitting-related items that were assembled as stand-alone units. Most of the items have been prepared as component parts, but some of the additional mountings need to be machined using the remaining materials.

(1) Rudder

The rudder attached to the stern is assembled and attached to the hull. Assembled so that it can be moved through the tiller, but it can also be assumed to be fixed.

* Glue the rudder parts RD1 to RD3 respectively. The glued surfaces leave burn marks, so RD2 is assembled inverted. Cut the interfering portions of the mating parts as appropriate, referring to the rider's assembly, and paint the portions where burn marks have been removed black with a pencil or similar tool.

* The back piece is not included but is made by referring to the Rudder drawing and glue to the back.

Note: Version 2.0 adds a back piece.

Back piece BP 1 0.8mm

* In this condition, the plate surface is tapered. The thickness dimensions of each section are

Top edge front 6mm (as board thickness)

Lower end front 5mm

Lower back         3mm

Fixed to a sloped flat surface, etc., for grinding.

* Glue the rudder sole RS to the bottom.

* Taper the front face of the rudder at 30° each in the center swing.

* Drill a hole in the top of the rudder through which the tiller passes. The angle of the hole is determined so that the tiller is slightly upward. Check the mating condition of the tiller. The tiller is assembled after the rudder is assembled to the hull.

* Fabricate pintles and gudgeons using styrene material. Referring to the Rudder drawing, determine the length of the central trapezoidal part for each position and extend the fixing arms from both sides of it. On the pintle side, a brass rod is incorporated in the center tip, and on the gudgeon side, a hole is drilled for the brass rod to pass through at a point where the rudder has no gap against the sternpost.

The brass rods must be aligned so that the movement is smooth so finish them that way.

* The fixing arms are glued directly to the rudder on the pintle side, but on the gudgeon side, they are glued with a plate equivalent to the thickness of the outer hull plank between them. Styrene parts and wood are glued together with instant adhesives.

* The bolts that hold the pintle and gudgeon in place should be made in a shape that has a protruding head. Put a small amount of bond on the tip of a needle or toothpick and lightly touch the bolt position. The bond on the surface will form a raised pile due to surface tension, so leave it to dry. The size of the pile depends on the tip shape of the item to be attached, so practice a little to find just the right amount. If the pile is low, heap the bond again when it is freshly dried.

* Paint the styrene parts black before assembling the rudder to the hull.

Refer to [Fig. 10-01] through [Fig. 10-04] for the assembly process.

(2) Bit, belfry (belfry), cat head

Common to all these parts is the square hole for fitting a sheave (pulley) or pole (tooth clamp). It would be difficult to hollow out from a single piece of material at first due to the narrow hole width. So, taking advantage of the accuracy of laser cutting, it is made here by laminating thin boards.

* Referring to [Fig. 10-05], the parts made in full length and the parts divided by holes are alternately glued together. Full-length parts can be aligned by using sheave holes and passing guide pins through them, while divided parts are aligned by making the top or bottom edge flush with the parts on both sides.

* When the glue is dry, put the pin through again (or cut the guide pin flush), but it is a clever idea to put a sheave made of cardboard or other material in the corner hole. In this case, the sheaves should be painted gray.

* In laminated structures, as mentioned in the beam section, the joint surfaces should be sanded clean and free of dirt, and care should be taken to prevent edge sagging due to sanding.

* The bitt has two unmachined faces on the upper profile, so a secondary process is used to produce the same bitts as on both sides. The external surfaces are then sanded cleanly.

* Two bitts each are connected by a crosspiece. Refer to the Bitt drawing, assemble them first or assemble the crosspiece when assembling to the deck.

* Referring to the BeamLayout-Upper drawing, glue them in the JB and TB positions, respectively [Fig. 10-06].

* For the belfry, temporarily fix the columns assembled with BP1 to BP4 at 13 mm between centers and glue the canopy BC1. The headstock is pinned so that it can rotate freely between the columns. The tooth clamps are temporarily assembled with the later windlass and adjusted in length to fit nicely in the holes for the toothing.

* Paint the entire surface black.

* Referring to the BeamLayout-Upper drawing, assemble to the BP position [Fig. 10-07].

Note: Headstock was added as a part in Version 2.0.

Headstock HS 1 2mm

* The catheads are assembled from CH1 to CH3 and then aligned and assembled to the hull according to the BeamLayout-Cabin drawing. At this time, it interferes with the fife rail, so that part should be cut off. The location is around between the 7th and 8th cant frames, and the depth is about parallel to the deck surface with the underside of the cathead. Process and shape it so that there is no gap between it and the cathead [Fig. 10-08].

(3) Hatch

The upper deck has two hatches, one large and one small. One of them is covered by hatch cover instead of a grating, but I decided to create and apply a grating to both to verify the accuracy of the laser cut.

The hatch usually has rules between it and the beam that supports it and is designed so that the hatch's outer edge is centered on the beam width or carling. Therefore, they are dimensioned to be consistent with the beam spacing, hatch frame thickness, and grating pitch.

In assembling the gratings, I used Syren's assembly jig as a reference for laser cutting.

* Remove burn marks from each component. To neatly combine small parts, great care is taken to avoid missing or gaping parts.

* Referring to [Fig. 10-09], fix the grating assembly jig on a suitable flat surface and fit the grating GRTGs into its groove. Line up twelve for large ones and seven for small gratings.

* The batten Btn is fit and glued on top of it. This is 12 pieces in both cases.

* After the glue has dried, remove it from the jig and cut the excess length. The finished dimensions will be 23 x 23 mm for the large size and 13 x 23 mm for the small size.

* Combine and glue the head ledge HLx and hatch combing HCx, both large and small. The finished dimensions will be 27 x 27 mm for the large size and 17 x 27 mm for the small size.

* Slightly taper the outer edge of the frame upward and slightly round the top edge and corners.

* Insert the created gratings here. Since the grating will fall if left in place, a small stopper (or ledge) is added to the inside surface of the hatch coaming at a point where the top surface of the grating is flush with the frame.

* Referring to the BeamLayout-Upper drawing, assemble them in the MH and HW positions, respectively. Be sure to place it in the center of the beam and carling [Fig. 10-10], [Fig. 10-11]. Gratings are detachable.* Referring to the BeamLayout-Upper drawing, assemble them in the MH and HW positions, respectively. Be sure to place it in the center of the beam and curling [Fig. 10-10], [Fig. 10-11]. Gratings are detachable.

(4) Windlass

Since the spindle of the main body of Windlass is difficult to laser-machining, I will make this part by my selves.

* Referring to [Fig. 10-12], create 4x8 mm square pieces from the board at hand. Two pieces are 36 mm long and four pieces are 12 mm long. These are glued together two by two to make an 8x8mm square lumber.

* Shape the sides into an octagon. Align isosceles triangles of wood and hold the square timbers at 45° for shaping.

* The 12 mm one is further tapered to 6 mm on one end.

* For the iron hoop at the ends, Cut 1 to 1.2 mm wide water-soluble tape (black) for painting materials to wrap around.

* Referring to the Windlass drawing, machine 1 mm square holes for hand spikes (detachable levers) and 1 mm wide tapered holes for tooth stops on all 8 sides. After drilling a 1 mm round hole, make a square hole using a knife for threading or a cutter with a 30° blade. The spacing of the holes for the tooth stops is the same as the spacing of the belfry pillars, and the center swing is 13 mm.

* Drill 4.5mm dia. holes in the spindle and the heads locating at both ends, align their faces with each other, and connect them with a round bar. The distance between the spindle and the head should be wide enough to allow the windlass post to fit and rotate freely.

* Combine and glue the posts WL1 and WL2 to the round bar section. At this time, make sure that adhesive does not stick to the round bar section. Allow the spindle to rotate freely after assembly. WL3 can also be glued here, but it is recommended to glue it after assembling the windlass to the deck to absorb assembly errors.

* Refer to the BeamLayout-Upper drawing and assemble in the WL position [Fig. 10-13].

Note: Spindle material was added in Version 2.0.

Spindle     WS         2 4mm

Spindle head     WHS         4 4mm

(5) Cannons and mounts

There may be few examples of structural models carrying cannons, but this ship will carry a mortar as the main feature, so cannons and swivel guns will also be mounted together. For this reason, five sets of gun carriages were also prepared.

* Refer to [Fig. 10-14] and glue the upper GCU and lower GCL of the gun carriage.

* Round both ends of the axle to the diameter where the wheel enters by 2 mm.

* The gun carriage is glued to the length of the front and rear axles FA and RA. This results in the carriage being narrower at the front than at the rear.

* Glue the bolster on the rear axle and glue the gun bed GB on top of it. The gun transom is slightly tilted backward and glued on the front axle as if it were in contact with the outer surface of the gun barrel at right angles.

* Attach the wheels WF and WR. You are free to make it move or not. The front is the larger wheel.

* The barrel is placed on the gun carriage and the trunnion are held in place with cap squares made of water-soluble tape or similar material. Do not get any adhesive on the barrel. The barrel is a 3D printed part.

* A simple imitation of how to fix this part is to raise the bond to resemble a bolt head, as was done with the rudder.

* Tie bolts to fasten the carriage and eyebolts to fasten the tackle are installed by machining brass wire or other means as appropriate.

* Prepare quoins as needed to adjust the angle of the barrel (horizontal to slightly upward) to match the gun port later.

* Attachment to the hull is done after partial affixing of the deck, etc. [Fig. 10-15].

Note: Bolsters and quoins were added in Version 2.0.

Bolster BLS 10 2mm

Quoin Quo 10 2mm

(6) Pump

There are two types of pumps, one for the front and one for the rear, but this time two identical pumps are made for bilateral symmetry. Symmetry refers to the difference in the mounting position of the discharge port relative to the pump handle.

* Referring to [Fig. 10-16], insert a 5 mm round bar into the hull in place and cut it to a dimension where the top end is exposed 9 mm from the top of the beam.

* Taper the bottom edge to a diameter of 4 mm.

* Drill a hole approximately 2.5 mm in diameter and 6 to 8 mm deep at the top edge and paint the inside surface black.

* Punch a 0.8mm hole in a 2mm round bar, cut it to a length of 3mm, and paint the inside surface black.

* Temporarily assemble the pump handle PH and support PHS to the casing and drill holes matching the brass rod at the locations for the hooks and pins. The handles should be able to move up and down. Glue the supports to the casing once their mutual relationship is confirmed.

* Glue the discharge port to the casing. It is perpendicular to the handle but note that the left and right sides are different on both ports.

* Wrap two iron bands (water-soluble tape) around the exposed area on the beam.

* Refer to the BeamLayout-Upper drawing and assemble in position P (4 locations). Be sure to orient the discharge port in the correct direction [Fig. 10-17].

(7) Bulkhead

A bulkhead on the cabin deck is provided to represent the partition between the upper and lower decks. Due to the material (0.8 thickness), the laminated thickness will be thicker than the scale, but if this is a concern, sand the surface after assembly to make it thinner. Depending on the hull assembly conditions, it may be difficult to install the bulkhead afterwards. In that case, the bulkhead BH is attached to the hull by dividing it into two parts in the center or into three parts at the pillar position.

* Taper the opening of the bulkhead partition BHP according to [Fig. 10-18] before bonding it to the bulkhead BH. Top and bottom surfaces are shaped to fit the bulkhead. Finished thickness can be adjusted as desired.

* Pillars are fitted between the partitions.

* Install the door BHD in the center of the bulkhead. It should be slightly open.

* Refer to the BeamLayout-Upper drawing and assemble to the BH location on the quarterdeck [Fig. 10-19].

(8) Breast rail

This is the handrail at the front end of the quarterdeck. At this time, I do not have it as a part, so it will be fabricated from materials you have on hand.

* Referring to [Fig. 10-20], round the corners to about 1R for 4mm wide rails.

* Glue a 3 mm wide rail under the breast rail. In addition, four 1 mm holes are drilled in the footrail in the center distribution.

* Drill a 1 mm hole in the upper center of Pillar 1, embed brass wire with instant adhesive, and cut the exposed surface to approximately 2 mm.

* Drill a 1 mm hole in the bottom center of Pillar 2. After that, it is shaped into the shape shown in the figure, but if it is difficult, it can be left as square timber.

* Pass Pillar 1 through the foot rail and adjust it so that the whole assembly lines up before gluing it in place.

* Fit Pillar 2 to the exposed brass dowel, adjust the degree of alignment then glue it in place.

* Glue the breast rail to the top surface of Pillar 2.

* After sanding the surface, the entire surface is painted black.

* Refer to the BeamLayout-Upper drawing and assemble to the Breastrail position on the quarterdeck [Fig. 10-21]. There is a camber here, so if it is not sitting well, reshape the underside of Pillar 1 accordingly.

Note: Added as a rail component in Version 2.0

Breast rail         BR1, BR3 1 ea. 1mm

                       BR2        1        0.8mm

Breast rail pillar BRP1, BRP2 4 ea. 3mm

(9) Channel, ladder, and tiller housing

Assemble each part [Fig. 10-22]. There are several diverse types of channels and ladders with different shapes.

* First, the channels CHM1 and CHM2, CHM3 and CHM4, and CHM6 and CHM7 are glued side by side on a flat plate or similar surface. CHM5 is used alone. Since the scarf portion interferes in the lamination process, shave that portion before gluing.

* Glue the retainer to the front. Then clean up the entire surface and round off the ends of the retainer.

* Refer to the SideView drawing and assemble in the CH position [Fig. 10-23]. Install in order of youngest number from the front.

* If you wish to attach a large or small dead eye, refer to the SideView drawing and assemble it. After grooving the sides of the dead eye, brass wire is wound around the dead eye, threaded through the channel holes, and glued to a chain made from styrene.

* Ladders vary in length (number of steps) and width depending on where they are mounted, but the assembly procedure is the same.

* Cut ladder parts Ld1 and Ld2 at the groove position appropriate for the mounting location. Cut the upper front portion vertically according to the wall to be mounted.

* Cut, fit, and glue the step material according to the ladder width [Fig. 10-25].

* First, the tiller housing tops THT1 and THT2 are butt-glued to be roof of the tiller housing.

* Next, glue the side walls TH1 through TH5 in sequence. Since they are sloped and joined at an angle to each other, the bonding surfaces are beveled to match the appropriate angle before bonding.

* Refer to the BeamLayout-Upper drawing and assemble to the TH position on the quarterdeck [Fig. 10-25]. This area is also partially deck planked and then assembled.

(10) Anchor

There are two types of anchors, large and small, but I decided to create only two Bauer anchors, planning to place these in front of the decorative stand after completion.

* The shank Shk is tapered so that the top is 2.5 mm square, and then the edges are chamfered by 0.5 mm.

* Glue Anchor Palm FoP to the blade (claw) and paint the entire piece black.

* Expose the top end of the shank by 3 mm and glue the anchor stock AS. The iron bands in the four places are then wrapped with 1 to 1.2 mm wide water-soluble tape (black).

* Round a 0.8 mm dia. brass wire to about 11 mm dia. in outside diameter and pass it through the hole in the top of the shank. This is also painted black.

* Anchors were not assembled to the hull, but arranged on a decorative stand [Fig. 10-27].

(11) Other outfitting

    In addition to these, the following items have been prepared as single or similar parts. Refer to the assembly drawing to assemble each in place.

[Bulkhead pillar]

* These columns support the bulkheads connecting the upper deck to the quarterdeck. Attach them at the BPL position in the BeamLayout-Upper drawing [Fig. 10-28].

[Bowsprit step]

* This plate holds the base of the bowsprit and is first tapered into the hole to match the bowsprit mortise. It is then secured between the forecastle deck beam 2 and the upper deck beam 1.

[Covering timber]

* Plates that hold the front and rear of the mortar pit deck and are fixed under the upper deck beam. If the pit deck is assembled to be removable, including the pit deck, it cannot be removed if this is present, so both or at least one of them should not be installed.

[Deadeye]

* Refer to the SideView drawing for assembly on the assembled channel. The dead eye should be grooved on the circumference for the wire, and the three holes should be slightly chamfered where the rope will meet.

Styrene is cut and rounded at the bottom ends so that the underside is aligned with the position and slope of each, imitating a chain. The part to be fixed to the outer plank is bent so that it is parallel to the board. The part will be bonded in the same manner as the ladder to simulate a bolt. The wire and styrene should be painted black [Fig. 10-23].

[Tiller]

* This is an operating lever attached to the top end of the rudder. The one end is round balls, so add end material as needed to make them round [Fig. 10-25].

[Iron support]

* This stand supports a mortar with an elevation angle when the mortar is in the firing state. It is not used in the storage state. 

[Knee of the head]

* This is a combined board attached to the forward-most end of the bow. To combine several boards, adjacent boards are inverted to match the slope of the burn marks, but some boards do not follow this rule, so they are assembled after shaping their mutual surfaces at right angles. Assemble on a flat board or similar surface so that the entire piece is finished on a flat surface.

After assembly, taper to a thickness of 2.5 to 3 mm at the very front.

The assembly to the hull should be on the center of the stem when viewed from the front of the stem, and it should be close together with no gap between the stem when viewed from the side. Repeat the temporary assembly and make sufficient adjustments so that this is the case [Fig. 10-29].

[Head rail]

* This is the parts to decorate the head section. After assembling the knee of the head, refer to the SideView drawing and assemble rest if the parts accordingly [Fig. 10-30].

[Entry step]

* This is the staircase that attaches to the outer hull of the center of the ship. After cutting to 11 mm long and mutually aligning the rear parts and pasting, round off the corners. When assembling to the hull, the rear part should be shaped to match the slope of the outer wall so that the plate surface is level [Fig. 10-31].

              Note: Added as a component in Version 2.0.

              Entry step                          ES1, ES2                          5 ea.                    1mm

[Fender]

* This is a vertical plate attached to the front of the second gun port. The top edge is cut to be flush with the top of the sheer rail and the bottom edge is cut to be flush with the top of the wale, and the rear surface is shaped to match the exterior wall curve [Fig. 10-32].

Note: Added as a component in Version 2.0.

Fender F 2              2mm

[Anchor lining]

* This plate is attached in front of the first gun port to protect the outer plate from anchor lifting and lowering. Attach three sheets between the bottom of the sheer rail and the top of the wale. The top edge should be 10 mm, the bottom edge 20 mm, and the front edge between them should be tied together with a smooth curve [Fig. 10-32].

Note: Added as a component in Version 2.0.

Anchor lining AL1 to AL3 1 ea. 1mm

[Quarter badge]

* The rearmost opening comes with a quarter badge with many decorations, but it is not prepared. Since the hole will remain open at this point, a simple framework is installed as an under framework. The top and bottom boards will look like they are shifted back and forth, so the corner posts will be installed accordingly, and the window cleats will be installed in them [Fig. 10-33].

Note: Added as a component in Version 2.0.

Quarter badge     QB 2    2mm

[Swivel gun pedestal]

* The swivel gun has been prepared, so it will be better to fabricate the support columns for it from square timber. Thin 4mm square lumber down to about 3.6mm and cut off about 1mm of the edges to make an octagon. Since the total length and the position of the cutout vary depending on the mounting location, refer to the SwivelGun drawing to process each one. The bottom should be rounded. When all prepared, wrap an iron band (water-soluble tape) around the top.

* Machining the support in the SwivelGun drawing with aluminum sheet, etc. for holding the swivel gun. Fix a pin in the center (instant glue can be used) , bend it to U shape and insert it into the post.

* For the swivel gun, drill a hole in the rear center, insert bent brass wire, and bond the end to round them [Fig. 10-34].

[Mast]

              Round rod                         7.0, 8.0 and 9.0                 150mm ea.

* Machining a part of the main mast (9Φ), mizzen mast (7Φ) and bowsprit (8Φ) as below, assemble them to each location. The bottom edge is shaped to match the mortise carved into each mast partner. Shape the top edge to your liking.

[Nameplate frame] – Optional

Nameplate frame NPF1, NPF2 2 ea. 5mm

* This frame is for nameplates, 50mmx80mm. Depending on the size and thickness, the inner surface is rabbeted.

Incidentally, nameplates can also be engraved with laser processing, so it is a good idea to design them to your liking. I used a two-layer colored acrylic plate that was available. The surface and letters can be produced in different colors by adjusting the laser depth [Fig. 10-35].

This completes all the planned assembly of the model. How was it?

Finally, the overall finish is performed. Once again, check for glue overspill, undone shaping, and large defects or gaps throughout the entire area and make corrections for them. This time, only one coloring and painting was used, black, to reproduce the texture of the wood as much as possible. The entire piece is then finished coated with natural Watco oil. I have already done some parts of the finishing, but I will do the finishing including those parts.